Alternative species (click on the thumbnail to see the card)
Green flowerpot coral
Origin: Red Sea, Indian and Pacific Oceans
Kind: Hard Coral with long polyp (LPS)
Form: form of long tentacles surmounted by polyps, general aspect in "bouquet of flower". The skeleton is dense.
200 L / 44 imp gal / 53 US gal
T°: 24 to 26°C or 75 to 79°F
pH: 8.1 to 8.5
Density: 1023 to 1025
60cm (24") diameter
How to feed the Daisy coral?
This coral feeds in part by taking advantage of a microscopic algae that develops in it under the light: the zooxanthellae. The coral consumes this algae. But it is far from being enough! It must absolutely be fed continuously by its caretaker, even daily.
Use mainly phytoplankton and other fine particle powder. On the other hand, artemia nauplia or any other food of this type are not accepted.
For example, the use of Min's from Fauna marin (a very practical and efficient complete food) is recommended, as well as the mixture Coral sprint (1 teaspoon for 500 L / 110 Imp gal / 132 Us gal) + Ultra clam + Amino acid KZ (1 drop for 100 L / 22 Imp gal / 26 Us gal) - Sulphur: Le récif du belon by Fredeau.
Note the existence of a product specially dedicated to feed Goniopora: Goniopower by Justin Credabel's.
Varying the food over the course of a week is also a guarantee of success!
Who can live with the Daisy coral?
Avoid maintenance with clownfish which can damage the coral (different theories on the subject, such as the stress inherent to the presence of fish in the tentacles or the fact that clownfish bring anemone mucus to the Goniopora which can burn it).
How to breed the Daisy coral?
You can either detach branches from the skeleton, or recover from rejects at the foot of the colony (cuttings).
Which aquarium for the Daisy coral?
Of course, the living conditions of a reef aquarium are necessary for this coral.
Generally, it appreciates medium brightness and low mixing (with a few exceptions with some varieties. Don't hesitate to move your Goniopora to more shade if it never unfolds. Finding the right location can sometimes be part of the fighter's journey). To combine these two conditions, place your Goniopora on the sand or on a rock, but rather at the bottom of the box in a clear angle.
Regularly monitor your calcium, magnesium and Kh levels, which are the basis of its good maintenance. Surprisingly, the nitrate level should be quite high (ideally between 10 and 20 mg). Pay attention to variations in parameters that the colony does not appreciate (especially pH). It is also very sensitive to heavy metals, this coral does not tolerate this type of pollution (generally, the coral retracts and we only see its skeleton). Use ICP-OES tests to monitor all this.
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For a long time, this coral was very difficult to maintain in aquariums. Often, a colony withered little by little and finally died after 6 months. Its maintenance was therefore reserved for experts in reef aquariums. Today, we have advanced in the technique of reef aquariums and in the feeding of corals. Its maintenance is thus more accessible than before, but remains however delicate (rather random, according to species and colors, some colonies will bloom where others will be impossible to recover...).
You can find Gonioporas of different colors: red, green, purple, mauve, brown, orange, pink, yellow, blue... Generally, the easiest to maintain are the reds, greens and purples, while the fluos are the most difficult.
There are 14 varieties of Goniopora, for example (non-exhaustive list):
Goniopora Lobata (easy to maintain)
Goniopora tenuidens (of intermediate difficulty)
Goniopora Stokesi (more difficult to maintain)
Goniopora djiboutiensis (rare, likes a stronger brewing than other species)
Not to be confused with Alveoporas, whose maintenance conditions are identical (except for the stirring which will be stronger for Alveoporas). To differentiate them, count the number of polyps at the end of the tentacles: Alveoporas count 12, against 24 in Gonioporas. Note that the Alveoporas hold much better in aquarium than the Gonioporas!
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